We all want *perfect* skin, don't we? Gazing longingly upon those beautiful, luminous faces in the fashion and celebrity magazines, we wonder why we don't seem to have the taut, poreless, flawless skins we covet.
Well, first off, let's face facts. Skin without pores does not exist. Photoshop, airbrushing, and computer generated images are the norm these days; it's rare that you will see a face or photograph that hasn't been "touched up". Freckles, lines, wrinkles, blotches, broken capillaries, pimples, pores, hairs, and more can quickly be eliminated with the click of a mouse! Wouldn't it be wonderful if we could do that to ourselves every day?! Alas, that is not the case, and we need to be realistic about our skin and how we can make it look. While there is always room for improvement, stop being so hard on yourself.
In order to choose skin care products that are right for you, it's necessary to understand your skin's type as well as it's conditions. This discussion will be a "beginner's basics" to assist in guiding you with your skin care choices. While there are many factors and details that we can cover, this tutorial is here to help you quickly get some basic information. Skin care selection should be made based on personal preference in texture and feel, your skin's individual needs, and your skin care goals.
Skin types are oily, dry, and the occasional normal. Skin conditions are varied - acne, wrinkles, flaking, hyperpigmentation, clogged pores, etc... Both skin type and condition will dictate what types of products you will select. There are no "cookie cutter" skin care routines that are effective, such as you see on t.v. and in department stores selling the 3-step program for everybody under the sun. You choices should be individual to you and your skin's needs. Skin conditions can change positively and negatively with alterations to your routine, but also with changes in weather, stress, hormone levels, age, and other factors. The skin is an ever changing organ; the body sheds over 3.5 billion cells per day which results in an entirely new skin every 6-9 months. You need to stay in tune with it and what it asks you for.
The main factors that dictate skin type (and contribute to some conditions) are oil and water. While a perfect balance of oil and water is ideal, that is often not the case with our skin. Oil forms a protective barrier on the skin, slowing loss of water. Loss of water results in a myriad of conditions including dehydration, sensitivity, skin congestion, and a dull complexion. While drinking water is important for good health, you are not a plant. Drinking water will not instantly perk up your face. Some people prefer to not have the sensation of oil on the skin, but it is a good thing to have when it's balanced.Too much oil production can result in clogged pores, blackheads,acne, and an oily appearance.
DRY SKIN: Dry skin can be found lacking in oil, moisture, or both simultaneously. You may have some oil in the T-Zone, as this area of the face has a greater concentration of oil glands, but you can still have small pores, flaking, tightness, and lack of sebum (oil) on the rest of the face. Dry skin can be exacerbated by harsh cleansers, some cosmetics, and hot water. It can be worsened at certain times of the year; particulary in the winter when the air lacks humidity, as well as dry air from heat sources. If dryness worsens, it may result in increased sensitivity, redness, chapped appearance, itching, cracks and fissures.
Even though you may prefer to use mild, soothing products for your dry skin, keep in mind that exfoliation is important to reduce dry skin buildup as well as to assist in better absorption of skin care products. This can be achieved through the use of acid based cleansers, toners, serums, and creams. A balanced regimen of soothing, hydrating products as well as some exfoliation elements is recommended.
OILY SKIN: Oily skin is characterized by enlarged pores, little black specks in the pores (blackheads),acne (pustules, papules)and the obvious presence of oil, especially in the T-zone (forehead, nose, chin). People with oily skin sometimes complain that their skin also feels "dry". What they are describing is actually dehydration; the skin is lacking water. When this happens, it can contribute to clogging and congestion of the skin. You need to keep this in mind when treating your oily skin. You want to keep the skin feeling clean and fresh, but not at the expense of stripping your skin of it's natural hydration. Do not be afraid to use a moisturizer. If you select the right one, your skin can be happy and healthy without you feeling as though your skin is suffocating under more oil or that you are going to "break out".
Product Selection: Keep in mind that a well balanced routine is important for happy, healthy skin. Sometimes you may need to experiment with different product combinations to find the right regimen for you. This is a good time to work with trial sizes to assess your reaction to different formulas. Unless you have an extremely resilient skin that is used to an aggressive routine, using too many "active" ingredients such as using multiple products with acids, retinol, etc... can be too much too soon, resulting in irritation.
On the flip side, using too few actives or too mild a routine can result in little improvement or results. When in doubt, it is always best to err on the side of caution and start off slow; you can always increase the amount of actives or frequency of application as your skin's tolerance increases.
Cleanser: Choosing a cleanser should include the following considerations - texture & type preference such as a bar or liquid, skin type and conditions, and level of sensitivity. If a cleanser with an acid can be tolerated, it is recommended almost all skin types (except for the most sensitive) in the increase of cellular turnover. This will be helpful for improvement of dull complexion, flaking,clogged pores, milia, discolorations, healing of acne stains, and overall rejuvenation of the skin. Again, keep in mind your skin's tolerance for active ingredients as well as your care goals. For instance, if reducing hyperpigmentation is your #1 concern, choosing a cleanser with pigment inhibitors would be your best choice. If your skin is extremely dry and irritated, a gentle, creamy, hydrating cleanser would be soothing. if it is mildly dry, a gentle cleanser with some light acids can be helpful in removing dead skin buildup and help your serum and moisturizer penetrate more effectively. If you are acne prone or oily, a cleanser with exfoliating acids (oil reduction and exfoliation to reduce clogging, pimples, and blackheads) and antibacterial properties would be a good choice.
Toner: The toners sold at Valerie Beauty are not your basic drugstore astringents. Our toners have benefits ranging from hydration, exfoliation, and calming effects. Select one that will be complementary to your skin routine.
Serum: Serums are an essential component of a complete and balanced skin care regimen. They contain a concentration of active ingredients targeted to address specific skin conditions. Serums often are an excellent source of hydration for the skin, in addition to their specific benefits. People who incorporate a serum into their routine often remark that they see noticable and more rapid improvement toward their desired results. Some examples would be: salicylic acid serum for oily, acne prone skin, hyaluronic acid serum for intensive non-oily hydration for all skin types, pigment control serum for hyperpigmentation, and so forth.
Moisturizer: Several factors must be considered when selecting the right moisturizer for you. Just like with cleansers, texture preference, skin type and conditions, and level of sensitivity should be considered.
There are many kinds of cremes and lotions to choose from. At the very least, it is important to use a moisturizer to help balance the water/oil ratios of the skin, no matter what your skin type or conditions are. Even people with oily skins need hydration, and often they find that adding a proper moisturizer to their skin routine results in an improvement in clogging and blackheads. Dehydrated skin (skin lacking water, not oil) can become congested, and using a moisturizer with hydrating ingredients such as hyaluronic acid can be very helpful.
While you might be a bit confused by all the choices available to you, your best bet is to select a formula that contains ingredients targeted towards your most current concerns. Are you most concerned with wrinkles? Acne? Or is age spots and sun damage your concern right now? Remember that your skin changes, so you need to pay attention to how it is reacting to what you are putting on it. What works for you in the summer may not be as effective in the winter ie; light lotion for hot weather vs. more emollient cream for winter.
It is also very important to review what other products you are using, to insure you do not combine too many active ingredients, which would result in irritated or damaged skin. Often, skin needs time to adjust to a new product. Our skin has the ability to build a tolerance to certain ingredients. So, if you find that you are sensitive to retinoids, alphahydroxy acids, etc... it doesn't necessarily mean you cannot use them at all. It means that you should slowly introduce them to your skin, even it that means only once a week to start. Unless you are experiencing severe allergic reactions (swelling, extreme redness and tenderness, scabbing,etc...) in time your skin will come to tolerate the active ingredients in clinical grade skin care. Until you have determined what your skin can tolerate, it's best to not introduce too many new products to the skin, especially multiple products that all contain exfoliating properties.
Exfoliation: As we age, our skin does not desquamate (shed, exfoliate) as effectively as it did when we were younger. Skin can appear to be dull, lackluster in tone, and have visible flaking when exfoliation is needed. Another reason to exfoliate the skin besides improving it's immediate appearance is to assist in better absorption of your skin care products. Build up of dead skin cells can act as a barrier, preventing the full absorption of your products.While the Stratum Corneum, or horny layer of the skin is composed of dead, keratinized cells that act as a protective layer , excessive buildup leads to flaking and dull appearance that most do not find appealing.
Think of it this way - if you take a bunch of dead, dried flowers and placed them in a vase of water, would they absorb the water? No, they are dead and can no longer do that. Now take a bouquet of living flowers and place them in a vase of water. They are still living and are able to absorb water and flourish for a while until they die.
There are basically two types of exfoliation methods: chemical and physical.
With physical scrubs, often people are far too vigorous with their scrubbing and rubbing. You do not need to rub your face raw to get results! Gently massage the skin with a scrub using your fingertips, preferable after the skin has been moistened and the debris in your pores has been softened by warm water in the shower, for instance. Once or twice a week is plenty. You do not need to do a scrub every day.
There are a number of ingredients that are used for scrubs - microdermabrasion crystals, tiny polyethylene beads, ground seeds, etc.. choose a scrub formula that is appropriate for your skin. Sometimes acids will be added to boost the effectiveness of the product. If you have very sensitive skin, a very abrasive product with acids may not be the best choice for you. Also keep in mind what other products you are using in your skin routine, and consider whether adding a physical scrub is the best idea. Remember, less is more. Causing inflammation and irritation to the skin is not a desired goal.
Chemical exfoliation is achieved by the use of ingredients such as alpha hydroxy acids (AHA's) and beta hydroxy acids (BHA's). AHA's are derived from natural sources such as sour milk, sugar cane, grapes, apples, and citrus fruit. AHA's have been used over the centuries for softening and smoothing the complexion, through the use of wine and milk applied to the skin. Unlike physical scrubs, the acids work in a more passive way, dissolving the chemical glue that holds the dead skin cells together on your skin's surface.
BHA's can treat mild acne, exfoliate the skin, improve shaving irritation, razor bumps, and ingrown hairs from waxing. Higher strengths of BHA's can be irritating to some skins.
Masque: Masques are a step in the skin care routine that many people enjoy. Like with most skin care products, select one that is designed to target your current skin's needs. A soothing gel masque would be excellent for sensitive and rosacea skins. If clogged pores or rough skin surface is a concern, a masque with an acid such as glycolic would be recommended, and so forth.
SPF: The most important anti aging product you can use is SPF! UV exposure is responsible for up to 80% of the aging of your skin. We refer to this as extrinsic aging. Natural aging, or intrinsic aging, is what happens as we progress chronologically. Much of intrinsic aging is genetic. But, considering that almost 80% of aging is preventable,it is UP TO YOU to keep your skin looking young.
We wear SPF to protect us from UVA and UVB rays from the sun. UVA rays have the ability to go down to the dermis which is the base layer of the skin. They are mostly responsible for aging, and they also contribute to sunburns and skin cancer. UVB rays are main culprit regarding sunburn, and are also responsible for skin cancer. Evidence is showing that UV exposure suppresses the immune system, which can contribute to the development of skin cancer.
SPF is important especially if you are using acids and retinoids, as these active ingredients can increase sensitivity when exposed to UV light.
While we cannot achieve a "healthy tan" by exposing ourselves to sunlight, there are many excellent sunless tanning products available. Be sure to check out the self-tanning department at Valerie Beauty! Another way to get some color is by the use of bronzing powders. Our Starlet Glow bronzing powder can be dusted on with a brush, or easily mixed into your moisturizer to create a tinted moisturizer!
**DISCLAIMER**
The information presented on this site is intended to educate and offer guidance. It is not a replacement for medical evaluation, advice, diagnosis or treatment by a healthcare professional.
All products purchased and used from this web site are done so at your own risk. No medical claims or guarantees of product performance are offered or implied.
You are using products listed on our site at your sole risk and are responsible for all actions and consequences resulting from usage. In purchasing products from Valerie Beauty, you agree to indemnify and hold harmless Valerie Beauty from any claims, causes of action or damages (including without limitation any direct, compensatory, special, indirect, consequential, incidental, or punitive damages) arising out of Valerie Beauty performance of services or provision of products, or for consequential economic damages or consequential damages to person or property, including damages arising from any acts, omissions, or negligence on the part of Valerie Beauty, its agents or employees.
